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archive may 2006...Englishdeutsch

Volltrauf-Party on July 1, 2006 – Lenninger Alb

Volltrauf party
  • panico Alpinverlag and Klettern-Magazin celebrate their anniversaries at Albhaus Stuttgart.
    Check www.volltrauf.de for the first infos about the event. The Saturday is packed with action: A boulder contest, climbing with the locals and special guests in the local mountains.
    In the evening, Stefan Glowacz, Peter Mathis and others present their slide shows and the dancefloor is opened.

Pfalz & Elsass

Fairplay
  • Michael Stöckel repeated «Fairplay» 8b at Retschelfels
Info & photo: Yann Corby

Update of Suspension List for Southern Pfalz

 
  • For environment protection reasons climbers and hikers are reminded not to climb the following rocks and routes and walk around in close proximity until August 1.:
Total suspentions:
  • Altschlossfelsen, south-west massif at Eppenbrunn
    Bavariafeld at Wilgartswiesen
    Dingentalturm at Rinnthal
    Durstigfelsen at Dahn
    Freischbachwand at Wilgartswiesen
    Geierstein at Bruchweiler
    Glasfelsen at Erfweiler
    Hinterweidenthaler Steinbruch at Hinterweidenthal
    Hirtsfels at Hirschthal
    Höchstturm at Ludwigswinkel
    Hülsenfelsen at Hauenstein
    Krappenfelsen at Eußerthal
    Leberstein at Waldrohrbach
    Pfaffenfels at Schönau
    Rötzenstein at Gossersweiler
    westliche Kesselwand at Spirkelbach
    Lambrechter Steinbruch at Lambrecht

Partial suspensions:

  • Pferchfeldfelsen in Schindhard
    • Everthing east of thefirsdt ramp is closed
    • Ascending the massif only without exit to the summit. Turn round at the last bolt.
    • Follow the instruction of the guards.
  • Asselstein south face and Summit near Annweiler

All year suspensions:

  • Bänderfels: 'Kaiserweg' and 'Gelber Riß' are closed
    Schafsfelsen: Schandarigipfel

Pfalz-News

Loïc Fossard in "Windjammer"
Loïc Fossard in "Windjammer"
photo: Alex Wenner
  • Ingo Bald managed the first free ascend of «Kuckucksei» at Jungturm. The tec-tour, first done by Oliver Jacob, was rated 10- by Ingo.
  • In addistion, Ingo bolted a new entry to «Logical Progression» 10- in Edenkoben. he rated «Regression» 9-/9.
  • After «Mekka Direkt», Pierre Bollinger added «TNT» 10+ and «Sheets to the Wind» 10+/11-, both at Retschel, to his score.
  • Andi Ziegler repeated the classic «Windjammer» 10-, formerly the first Pfalz 10-, first done by Michael Schollter in the early 90's.

Mekka Direkt repeated

Pierre Bollinger klettert
photo: Alex Wenner Bild vergrößern
  • Pierre Bollinger finished the first repetition of Pflz top route «Mekka Direkt» 8c+, first don by Julius Westphal in 2005.
    Find more information about «Mekka Direkt» on the palatinum.info Mekka page

left: Pierre Bollinger in "Mekka Direkt"


More Elsass-News


info & links: Yann Corby


Boulderholics News
The Boulderholics crew spent the long weekend once again in Bleau and scored like never before:


  • Janek Altmaier iterated «Carnage» Fb 7B+.
  • Christoph Gabrysch scaled «Rataplat» Fb 7B, «Arrache Cœur» Fb 7C and «Insoutenable Légèreté de l'Etre en départ debout» Fb 7C.
  • Sebastian Gerber scored in «Pince-Mi, Pince-Moi» Fb 7B+, «Iceberg raccourci assis» Fb 7B+ and «Iceberg aller-retour» Fb 7C+.
  • Stefan Schwender recurred «Carnage».
  • Thomas Schwender climbed «Iceberg raccourci assis" and «Infidèle» Fb 7c.

Summitpost.org: An Exhaustive Pfalz Guide in English

Website Summitpost.org
  • summitpost.org is a stunning web community with lots or articles about climbing sites all over the world.
    Now, a genuine Pflaz local posted an exhaustive article about climbing in Pfalz with tons of information covering every detail from GPS coordinates of the sites, satelite images of the area, maps, tables with all of the available routes....

    Take a look and enjoy yourself!

Cult Magazine «Meier» interviews Alex Wenner

Kulturmagazin Meier
  • Cult-mag Meier spoke with AlexW about «Wilde Jagd» at Asselstein. The 8th degree tour, frist climbed by Rainer Scharfenberger, has cult status in Pfalz.

Westphal Climbing in Luxemburg


  • Julius Westphal did a stopover in the Luxemburg climbing area Berdorf. As a highlight he climbed all of a sudden the classic «Cima Ovest» 7c+/8a on sight with loose runners!

Events
For details check the palatinum.info event page.


  • PK-Feier at Bärenbrunnerhof on May 6.
  • Stefan Glowacz in Mannheim
    On May 12, 2006 Stefan presents «Always at the limit», his new slide show. Location is the engelhorn sports logistic center in Neckarau.
  • German sports climbing championship at Pfalz Rock Frankenthal on May 13 and 14.
  • Second climbers party in Ettringen on May 13

Zillertal Boulder Masters


  • mark your calendar:
    In July, the Stonemonkeys host a boulder contest in Zillertal.

    Currently, the following information leaked out:
    • date: July 8, 2006
    • place: Mayrhofener Boulderhalle
    • Aftercontest-Party
    more information to follow...

Pfalz – New Tour & Repetition

Portrait Ingo Bald
  • Ingo Bald finished his project to the right of «Teufelskralle» at Kippkopf. The name of the new devil's job is «Die Dämonen». The rating is 8a+ or 10-.
    Ingo said:
    «Avoid the big pebble at the foothold. Will make it last longer!»
  • Despite limited spare time, daddy Gerd Schöffl scored the route «Ivan – French Line» 8a+ at Sängerfels.

New Puller Mag on Sale

Frontcover Magazin
  • »Climb!« – The second issue of the new magazine is on sale since April 19.
    German language!

Where do climbers travel between Easter and Pentecost? South!
Lake Garda, Ticino, the Ardèche and other top spots in southern France and Italy lure with mild temperatures and phantastic rock quality. Julian Raff featuring ten prime areas with various routs for epicures and hard core climbers.
For all who prefer to stay indoors, the second part of the big climbing center test gives an overview over the 50 best "small" halls.
Ever heard of David Cato? Most likely not, but he is one of the gurus of the route builders.
»Climb!« met him at his "home hall" and talked to him about goodroutes, bad routes adn teh "heart" of a route.
In addition, there is a home story about Bernd Zangerl, world's best boulderer, and the breathtaking photos themed »Zen, or the art of climbing«.

The service part offers a guide to effective indoors drop- and belaying training, hard facts about many more attractive rock formations in the most beautiful climbing areas and a lot of information about climbing practice.
New as of this issue: the CLIMB!-Topothek:
Milestones amongst the climbing routes are presented on tear-off collection cards.
»Climb!« is released four times a year by Bruckmann Verlag. The price for the magazine is 4,90 € (5,30 € [A], 9,50 SFR). Online orders can be placed at ww.climb-magazin.de.


Pfalz Gossip


  • A torn up boar lay dead at the forrester's lodge in Annweiler.
    A spectator:
    „I was at the lodge and was about to warm up at the "Elastica" block when I spotted the gnawed off dead boar underneath the block.... Well, most likely, his mates have taken it apart in the meantime - or have it been the bad boulderers??? *ggg*“

Boulderholics Rocking


  • Christoph Gabrysch repeated the jump boulder classic „La taille est la gamelle“ 8a in Kronthal.
  • Sebastian Gerber bouldered „ Tanz den Mussolini“ Fb.7c+/8a at Riesenstein/Heidelberg.
  • Youngster Janek Altmeier climbed „Le grimpeur etait presque parfait" 7c at Waldeck.

Elsass

Pierre Bollinger in
Foto: Yann Corby
  • Pierre Bollinger climbed « Full metal Techno » 8c+ in Southern France.
  • Thomas Leleu managed a repetition of the classic „Take it or leave it“ 8a at Verdon.
  • Thomas Wendling repeated« De la terre a la une » 8a in Kronthal.
  • Starting April 30, bouldering at Laurenzoboulderfels is tolerated until 4 pm.

Info: Yann Corby

to the older news.