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Archive June 2005 ...Englishdeutsch

Hot News from Alsace


  • Alex Chabot repeated „La balle au bond“ 8a at Windstein.
  • Florent Wolff invented „Microméga“ 8a+/b, a new combinationa in Kronthal.
  • Loic Fossard repeated two 8b´s, „Stein und Flöten“ and „Simson's Rache“ at Wasserschloss/Basler Jura.

Info: Yann Corby


New Guidelines for Climbing/Bouldering in Pfalz


  • It took several meetings to revise the new guidelines for climbing and bouldering in Pfalz. Now the finalized revision June 2005 has been agreed on.
    It is absolutely necessary that all of us stick to these guidelines! Doing so will help to keep routes and boulders accessible.
    please review the guidelines on our palatinum.info conservation page (sorry folks, there is no English translation yet).

Schick keeps scoring


  • After his recent success at Retschel, Peter Schick climbed the monster roof „ZEC (Zero Effort Climbing)“ 8b/b+ at Burghaldefels.

palatinum.info selling Südpfalz climbing guide


  • Finally, waiting is over!
    Hans-Jürgen Cron's
    and Udo Daigger's Südpfalz climbing guide is on it's way to the print shop.
    Haste makes waste!
    If you want to the amongst the first to get this indispensible book place an order in our palatinum web shop and receive the guide as soon as it leaves the press.
  • The facts:
    Südpfalz Kletterführer
    H.J Cron, U. Daigger 2005
    platic cover, 700 pages, language: German
    price: 27.80 EUR + shipping cost

    Go for it at the palatinum web shop !

New Routes at Retschel & Mühlfels


Andi Ziegler
photo: Alex Wenner
  • Andi Ziegler did the first ascent of “Samba” 7c, right of “Golden” 7c+. It was an old project of Timm Gutensohn.
  • Julius Westphal managed a new combination at Retschel. “Sorrento” 8b combine “Mamba” 8a+, “Bespring mich” 8a+ and finish at the top of “Big Easy” 7c.
  • At Mühlfels, Andi Ziegler opened a new route, starting in “Die schöne Müllerin” 6b+, crossing the roof section, traversing the slab and finishing at “Pantomime” 8a.

New Retschel Tour

 
  • Markus Böspflug climbed a new combination at Retschel, named "Kriminelle Energie".
    Said Markus: "..scores at least 8b, starts with „TNT“ 8b+, traverses after the jump through the „Bespring mich“ traverse into „Gamba“, to the edge of the roof, right into „Narziß on the rocks“ and exit through it."

Fairplay + Theatre Repetition

 
  • Oldschool Climber Peter Schick rcently repeated “Fairplay” 8b at Retschel after the fucker had dropped him out again and again in the last pull for a few hard days.
  • Upfront, he did several 8a and 8a+ pieces, one of which was famous “Hokus Pokus”, also at Retschel - where else?
  • In the meantime, Thomas Leleu climbed „Le Theatre du No“ 8b in Kronthal.

New Story Online


Foto: Alex Wenner Pic vergrößern

  • Bouldern at Brenta/Dolomites
    Klettern magazin had a shortened article about boulering in Brenta.
    Read the full story, written by Alex Wenner, here on palatinum.info.
    Goto to the story (currently in German, only. Volunteer translators are welcome!).

Additional Advanced Climbing Course With Alex Wenner

Several people have requested an additional advanced course. Here it comes:
  • when: August 6th - 7th, 2005
  • where: Meeting point is Bärenbrunnerhof behind Schindhard
  • prerequisites:
    - completion of an beginner's climbing course
    - being able to climb UIAA grade 5 as second.
Detailed info in German and the registration form can be found on the Kletterkurs page.

The Rock in Karlsruhe features a rope-ladder

  • As of now, capable people can gain blockage power on the newly installed 10m rope-ladder which is an ideal compelemt to the existing new campus board at The Rock.
    Training instruction for ladder and board can be found on the metolius website (in English).
    Another highly recommended document about this topic is Neil Gresham's Guide to Isolation Training (also in English).

Ettringer Kletter Party


Foto: Flyer vergrößern
Florian Denert

the facts:

  • date:
    July 2nd 2005
  • location:
    At the Schäfer family's BBQ facility behind the sectors Ramstein and Waterworld.
  • overnight stays:
    Overnight stay possible, cost is 5€ per person.
  • supplies:
    Fire wood, charcoal and beer are supplied by the Schäfers.
    For everything else the motto is: BYO (bring your own).
  • music:
    On stage: the Cologne formation minor mountaineer + secret support!
  • contests:
    • who climbs the most routes
    • bad taste climbing (the phattest outfit wins)
    • the most worn out fingers score
    • the highest drop
    • ...and the rubber donky award!
  • Marc "stonelove" Wollf presents a slide show.

Pfalz gossip

Toni Gutsch
  • Mr. Toni Gutsch, who mastered Cerro Torre together with Alex Huber and who did a first ascent at Latok („tsering mosong“ :1000 meters climbing grade VII+/A3+), spent a weekend in Pfalz. Joining it AlexW and other locals, the climbed a few classics at Fladenstein, Burghalde and Rauhfels.

    upper pic:
    Toni Gutsch in the lower part of the Maestri route at Cerro Torre

    lower pic:
    v.l.t.r Toni Gutsch, Alex & Thomas Huber on the summit of Latok II
Toni Gutsch
pics: Alex Huber

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