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archive june 2006...Englishdeutsch

France - Frankenjura

Johannes Arbogast klettert "Muskeltiere"
photo: Alex WennerPics vergrößern
  • "Young" Palatinate Johannes Arbogast und dem "old" Palatinate Alex Wenner did a repetition of "Die zwei Muskeltiere" 10- at Soranger Wand.
  • In the meantime, Max Meier scored in "Pickelsau" in the same wall. This was his second 9-.
  • At Tarnschlucht in South France, Johannes had climbed "Arnaque.com" 8a, the classic "planet Groove" 8a and had repeated "Barbitturique" 8a on week before.

Eifel

Klaus "Rotbaron" Ruppert, who had visited Pfalz regularly in the nineties, recently managed the toughest Eifel tour.
Report by Thomas Wille, translation Kai Richelsen.


photo: Thomas WillePics vergrößern
  • name:
    Krieg der Sterne 10/10+
  • first ascender:
    Klaus Ruppert, June 5, 2006
  • charakter:
    30 ft of continous athletic roof climbing with dropoff at the end.

Bolted as just-for-fun-projekt in 1999 by Markus Meyer, the route got forgotten for almost 6 years. Too brittle, too wet, not worth the effort was the common opinion.

Only in spring 2005 I started out to examine the holds and steps in the roof more closely. The 1/4 inch Spax screws were replaced by reliable 10mm bolts. A few loose holds were removed, cleaned and re-attached to the roof. It took approximately 5 days to turn the project into climbable condition.

A whole more year the route defyed all climbing attempts until Klaus was now able to combine all 36 moves. Just in time, 'cause in the coming heat of the summer, the rock begins to sweat and some of the holds get nastily moist which doesn't make it easier!

Prime conditions were found in the cold time of the year, Klaus says. For the winter, delaying partners had to stand by to watch Klaus dropping off just beforevor the chain. Ideal temperatures on Pentecost pushed him to top form. Around noon, the hold were sweating again and two attempts ended in the belay line.
Later, close to sunset, when temperatures declined, the rock all of a sudden got a grip like never before and after 1.5 minutes of climbing Klaus clipped the last bolt!
It has been done! Such a lot of blood, sweat, nerves and money for fuel he had never payed for a tour before.

The unusual climbing and the high severity are unmatched and make this route a milestone of Eifel-climbing.

The tour is released - lots of fun all repeaters of this route and all who just want to give it a try!


Pfalz

  • Christoph Gabrysch and Mathias Conrad climbed "Gamba" 8a at Retsch
  • Julian Panigot repeated "Fairplay" 8b, at Retschel, too.

Alcase

  • David Matter climbed "Mesquinerie" 8b+/c (combination: Naufrage-Theatre-Tango) in Kronthal.
  • Max Mittmann did "Brombeerzeit" 8a and "Neunzügler" 8a in Grotte du Brotsch.
  • Julian Panigot cllimbed "Le Mesquin" 8b+ in Kronthal.

Update Ban List Southern Pfalz

 
  • For environmental protection reasons, climbers and hikers are called not to climb the following rocks nor to enter adjecent areas between February 2 and August 1:
Totally closed (new):
  • Altschlossfelsen, south west massive at Eppenbrunn
    Bavariafeld (Wilgartswiesen)
    Dingentalturm (Rinnthal)
    Durstigfelsen (Dahn)
    Freischbachwand (Wilgartswiesen)
    Geierstein (Bruchweiler)
    Glasfelsen (Erfweiler)
    Quarry Hinterweidenthal
    Hirtsfels (Hirschthal)
    Höchstturm (Ludwigswinkel)
    Hülsenfelsen (Hauenstein)
    Krappenfelsen (Eußerthal)
    Leberstein (Waldrohrbach)
    Pfaffenfels (Schönau)
    Rötzenstein (Gossersweiler)
    Quarry Lambrecht

partial closed:

  • Pferchfeldfelsen (Schindhard)
    • Everything east of the first ramp is closed
    • No exits via the crest - rapel from the last bolt
    • follow the oders of the guards
  • Büttelfels (Dahn)
    • appex is closed
    • all tours between and including little and big south wall
  • Asselstein-Südwand und Gipfel bei Annweiler

2006 closings:

  • Bänderfels: 'Kaiserweg' and 'Gelber Riß'
    Schafsfelsen: Schandarigipfel

info: PK


News from Alsace

PlakatKlettermeeting Roche Plates
  • Climbing Event!
    where: Roche Plates / Elsass
    when: June 11, 2006, 10am to 6pm
    Come an join in!
  • Mannheim based Dorothea Karalus climbed„Le chien engage“ 7c+ in Kronthal. Congratulations!
  • Thomas Leleu & Michael Stöckel did “La providence” 8a in the Frönsburg area.
  • Franck Andolfatto & Fred Susss repeated the leap bolder „La taille et la gamelle“ 8a in Kronthal.
  • Thomas Wendling climbed „Boulmich“ 7c+, „Le pourritures terrestres“ 7b+ in Kronthal and „Neunzügler“ 8a in Brotsch.
  • Christian Frick repeated „Carmina Burana“ 8a and Josef Tandlinger did „Le naufrage du tetanique“ 8a+.
info: Yann Corby

to the older news.