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archive August 2006...English deutsch

Superior Boulder Event Topped all Expectations

Chimpanzodrome
photo: Achim Wiesinger
(3 Pics) view  pics
    First LaSportiva Chimpanzodrome Boulder Challenge
     
  • Successful kick off with almost 90 partipiciants
  • Top boulders and a cool party in the hip climbing hall
  • Numerous sponsors support the contests
    35 Boulder, pumping music and highly motivated athletes: The first LaSportiva Chimpanzodrome Boulder Challenge at climbing hall Frechen surpassed all expectations. Almost 90 climbers enrolled for the first of three competitions. Shortly after 2 pm, the hyped plastic gourmets started crimping. A total of 35 demanding routes had been bolted by the Chimpanzodrome team in 30 hours of work. The motto being: not necessarily tough, but always enjoyable. In the boulder cave as well as in the whole climbing hall, lots of plastic routes had been built which entertained beginners, plastic climbers and hard movers as well.

Exciting fights for the frist place

    After round 1 the score looks as follows:
  • Women
    Sonja Schade leading with 721 points, Svenja Esken second (609 points) and Denise Plück third (584 points).
  • Men
    A thrilling neck-to-neck race between Tim Baumann (892 points) and Theo Konstandakopulos (867 points). Bastian Gebauer ranked third with 847 points.
  • In the Ü5 contest, Gert Kuske was well ahead of the pack with 546 points. Second: Peter Hamel (350 points) ahread of Peter Dopychai (140 points).
  • „We had expected 50 climbers for the premiere. Actually, we had 90 which is almost twice as much. We are looking forward to the two upcoming events with great confidence!“,
    said Hans Nathan, co-owner of the Frenchen climbing hall. The starters weren'd bothered by long approaches and came in from Dortmund, Koblenz, Aachen and even from the Netherlands. Obviously, the trip had been worth while: "Great boulders, great vibres - all it needs for a cool party!", was the unisono opinion of the partipiciants. The good mood was self made: Pumped to the smallest annular ligament, they shyed not even at the hardest boulder problem. Especially the dyno routes that can only be resolved by a plucky leap to the exit crimp inspired everybody.

Many sponsors on board

    The success of the upcoming competitions on Sep 16 and Oct. 14 is based on the sponsors, too. LaSportiva and the Cologne outdoor specialist will share an info and demo booth. Millet, Black Diamond, Lost Arrow, Panico und Petzl donated precious gear. The award ceremony of the competition series will be held after the third event. In addition to fame, glory and prizes, the winner will receive one of the much sought after cups of Leverkusen crimp maker Captain Crux. All other partipiciants go for the big final drawing with valuable prizes.

Info: j.nathan@chimpanzodrome.de

Addendum to August 17 News


  • Mathieu Ceron kindly supplied us with details about the Dutch who recently climbed „Knüppel aus dem Sack“ 8a at Rödelstein.
    His name is Roman van der Werf and according to Mathieu, he also did TNT, Fair Play, Mekka, Hookipa, Mamba, Fire Ice and Dynamite, Bespring mich, Fossard kombi, Magnetfinger, Hokus Pokus, Gamba and Schlendern is Luxus. All during a 2-week trip of the two to Pfalz!
    Roman's next project is the repetition of „Gambaxplosion“ 8c at Retschel.
    Good luck!

Info: Mathieu Ceron

PEAK Magazin Says Goodbye

Peak Magazin
photo: PEAK
  • After 2 years on sale, the German climbing magzine PEAK has been discontinued.
    Edit-in.chief Tom Dauer sent us the following email:

    "Dear authors, photographers, contributores, collegues, friends,

    two years are a short time. At least they went by at stunning pace since we published the first issue of PEAK. Unfortunately, the twelvth edition, released on July 19 as supplement of Alpin 06/2006, will be the last. Publisher Olympia Verlag decided "for economical reasons" to discontinue PEAK magazine.
    With PEAK, it had been our goal to publish a mag that stands out from the other outdoor publications by the selection of topics, the design and the quality of photos and writing.
    In my opinion, we accomplished a solid piece of craftmanship in these two years. For sure, our goal hadn't been reached yet - but that would have been boring.
    At this point, I want to thank you for the last two years. It was a pleasure to work with you. At times, it wasn't easy to stand up for the idea of an innovative, independant and unconventional magazine. The support our editorial staff got from our authors, photographers, collaborators, collegues and friends always fueled our energy, kept our spirits up and resulted in new creativity.
    We will do everything to continue working togehter on some other project."

translation: Kai Richelsen

Pfalz


  • Dicki Korb manages a repetition of the itchy, crimpy slab “Alder Vadder” 8b at Rödelstein. He confirmes the rating.
  • Thomas Leleu climbs „Ursprung“ 8a at Rödelstein and „Unendliche Leichtigkeit des Schweins“ 8a at Saufels.
  • Andi Ziegler repeats „Kreuzzug ins Glück“ 8a at Buchholz.
  • A yound Dutch/Luxemburger (?) did „Knüppel aus dem Sack“ 8a at Rödelstein.

Alsace

 
  • In Berdorf, David Matter climbed „Cima Ovest“ 7c+/8a, „Jactatio“ 8a and the classic „Hermann Buhl“ 8a+.
  • In Kronthal, he climbed „Insomnie“ 8a, a combination of „Láven Armand“ and „Telefeerique“, and finally „Faucon Maltais 7c+.
  • Arno Köppel repeated „Faucon Maltais“ 7c+ in Kronthal and „Vega“ 8a in Balme de Yenne.

Info: Yann Corby


Frankenjura

 
  • Mathias Conrad & Christoph Gabrysch climbed „Fit for Fun“ 9 and „Laurin“ 9+.

chimpanzoDrome Boulderchallenge 2006

Boulderchallenge
pic: chimpanzoDrome
BoulderChallenge
  • 35 Boulder
  • Fb 4a to 7x
  • time: 5 hours
  • what?
    Boulderchallenge 2006
  • where?
    chimpanzoDrome Frechen/Köln
    Ernst-Heinrich-Geist-Str. 18
    50226 Frechen (Ringlokhallen)
  • when?
    Saturday, Augsut 26, 2006
    Saturday, September 16, 2006
    Saturday, October 14, 2006
  • registration from 1:00pm
    start at 2:00pm
  • entry fee?
    12 Euro per person

    pleasure boulderers, veteran performers, boulder queens, hard rockers, muscle monsters, pebbel pressers... all climbers welcome!
  • more infos atwww.boulderchallenge.de
  • download the poster (3 MB)

First Pfalz Office Chair Downhill Race

Office X-Chair Logo
illustration :
www.wasischn.de
  • Attention all pyjama lovers and stamp collectors:
    August 19 is the day you leave your sugar butts on the whoopie cussions 'cause:

    The first Wasischn-X-Chair-Horror-Downhill-Race is on and t "ready to kick your ass!!"

    In the office, you're always the race to the water dispenser? Your a power pooper in your office chair?
    You are probably a born office chair downhill racer!

    Start either in "Stock-Class" or perform pro-style in "Pimp-Class" on the steepest and most dangerous track since Hanenkamm! This run makes even the DSV ski-flying team wet their trousers!

    Allright: You're man enough to go for it?
    Enroll, grease the bearings and off you go!
    Ready, get set, goooooooooooo....


New Tour at Luger Geierturm

  • Andi Ziegler climbed a new wall graded 8, clean, at Luger Geierstein. The climb starts in Kelvin”, traverses at the overhang to the right and follows the headwall to the belay of “Dream Team”. Andi is planning 2 additional bolts.

Climber Died After Fall Near Rinnthal

  • Our deepest sympathy is based upon the family of Josef who died last Saturday after a 25m fall in Pfalz. He succumbed his injuries in the hospital a few weeks after.

Accidents


  • Peter Deißer broke his wrist after a 5m grounder in the Battert climbing area.
  • A beginner dropped in the 2nd pitch of Hochstein-Nadel (Pfalz) and fell onto the band a few meters below. He hurt himself, too. The fire brigarde conducted the rescue.
  • A few weeks ago, another rookie fell at Jungturm, pulled 2 camalots and hit the ground and harmed himself.

    We wish all the best and a fast recovery.

Heinz Dengel Dead

 
  • The well-known Pfalz Climber, who opened famous lines as “Magnetfinger” 9+ (5+/A1) in the eighties, died in April.
    Wolfang Güllich did the first free ascent of Magnetfinger, the first redpoint was done by Wolfgang Kraus.

info: Lothar H.

to the older news.