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palatinum arts galery 2004
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Archive Dec. 2004 Englishdeutsch goes on holiday

  • From Dec. 23rd - Jan. 3rd the crew is on holiday, enjoying a (hopefully) white Christmas time.
    We wish all of you guys at the screens a merry Christmas, well filled socks, the most amazing gifts and perfect boulder conditions to convert the Christmas cookies into pure muscles...
    cu in 2004!
    Alex & Kai

The Oh no! Contest Winners

  • After a very nice person hacked our contest counter the team decided to draw the prices.
    Here are the winners:

Alex Wenner

First price: Rainer Scharfenberger.

  • The fear factor of his phycho-classics is legendary. He is one of the very few climbers who drill their attach holes without top rope. At least, he got himself a battery powered drill ;-)

Archiv Raab

Second price: Susanne Raab

  • 30 years & blonde.Climbing since 1 1/2 years, until now in well belayed routes up to 6th grade. But there is still potential. Has a lot of respect for free fall * SCREAM* .
    Project 2004: Lead in Pfalz routes – helping hands are welcome!

Archiv Coenen

Dritter Preis: "Petje" Coenen from NL

  • Hooked to phantastic landscape since his first trip to Pfalz some years ago. He is returning regularly to Leberknödel country to pull, meet nice people and get into the right mood.

Climbing Course Schedule

  • We are getting quite a number of emails from people requesting the next course roster. Be patient gals and guys!
    The new schedule will be posted sometime around the end of February. All climbers who subscribed to the news list will be notified by email as soon as new dates become available.

Repetition of Bollinger's 8a

  • Lutz Limburg managed the first repetition of Pierre Bollinger's Fb.8a (see news of 26.11) at Wartenberg. However, he regards a rating of Fb. 7c+ as more realistic.
  • Upfront and almost as a warm-up, he bouldered Schouwink's stamina traverse"Posex mit dem T-Tex" Fb.7c+ trav. at Hugo-Block.

New 8b Top Boulder in Pfalz

  • With Kryptonomikon Fb.8b trav, the boulder area Pfalz got it´s first 8b problem. Lutz Limburg, one of the area's top movers, was able to activate his tremendous power for the new traverse at the Runder Hut area.
Aluminuim foil was needed to seal the greasy side grip.

Fotos: Elke Hamm
Lutz in Kryptonomikon Fb.8b trav.
  • Lutz:
    " the beginning I had no clue how to climb the hardest moves of the problem. After a while, I found tricky heel- and foothooks to combine the complex movements. It´s an excellent spot."

    The boulder is very athletic and requires great body strength in order to solve the crux-sequence. Kryptonomikon starts below the exit of "Grüner Schlund" Fb.7a trav, traverses on tiny edges around 1m below the 6a trav and ends in the boulder "Dornen im Arsch" Fb.6a. AlexW joined Lutz with his camera, the foto tour will be featured in the end of december.

Classic "Mekka" 8a+/b (10-/10) repeated

  • Frenchman Thomas Leuleu succeeded in a repetition of the extreme-classic "Mekka" 8a+/8b (10-/10) at Nonnenfels. Good job.
Info: Yann Corby

Start of Red Chili Boulder Cup in Korb went well for a bunch of Palatine gals and guys

text & photo: Uwe Hofstädter
Nasty drizzle at 5°C, mean wind and the sky in darkest colours - altogether ideal bouldering conditions; given the problems are indoors and everybody is anticipating the contest.

All this seemed to be true. Roughly one hundred movers, keen to pull and tender 11 to rotten 43 years old, showed up at Active Garden in Korb to participate in the Red Chili Boulder Cup.
The goal was to tackle the 20 tricky problems within four hours.
Amongst the women Katrin Lau was most successful, followed by Stefanie Bichlmeier and Dorothea Karalus.
The men's constest was won by Aric Merz from Schwäbisch-Gmünd with 440 of 500 points. The second place with equal score but one additional flash went to Ingo Walde in front of Johannes Lau.
The male youth - up to the age of 17 - did well and Stefan Bühl won by flash advance in front of Manuel Grunwald, followed by Nicolas Altmaier.


The Facts:

Women Men
  1. Katrin Lau
  2. Stefanie Bichlmeier
  3. Dorothea Karalus
  4. Marion Hett
  5. Elke Wolf
  6. Katrin Lehmann
  1. Aric Merz
  2. Ingo Walde
  3. Johannes Lau
  4. Leif Büttner
  5. Peter Würth
  6. Andreas Barth

The complete scores are published at

translation: Kai Richelsen

Runder Hut & Kalmit

  • Back on home soil, Ingo Walde managed repetitions of "The Art of War" Fb.7b+ and "Die Sau" Fb.7b at Runden Hut.
  • Ingo Bald climbed a new highball at Kalmit that checks in at Fb.7a+. Don't let go in the end - you're 7m above the ground and your crash pad won't be of much help.

to older news (still in German)